This bracelet is composed of four slightly arched plaques of gold-plated tombac divided into organic decorative patterns created by polychrome opaque cold enamelling in red, orange, translucent petrol and clear blue with gold coloured edging and bands in cloisonné technique. The connecting pieces and clasp are also made up of gold-plated tombac. Black enamel on the reverse.

Manufacture: Perli, Schwäbisch Gmünd, Germany, c. 1955.
Mark: “PERLI” in the clasp.
Measure: 7,87” (20 cm) x 0,39” (1 cm)
State: best condition.

Perli Pearl Industries of Schwäbisch Gmünd was founded in the early twenties by Martha May and specialized in the manufacturing of glass-pearl costume jewellery. In 1937 the firm won a silver medal at the Paris Exposition. Two years later, it reached its maximum size, employing over 100 workers. In addition to wood, glass, and porcelain beads, Perli’s production also included objects made from pewter or silver. From 1935 on, they also made enamelled ornaments which were later to become their specialty.

The metal bracelets let the old and new technologies of the enamels and the design with rich colour-contrasts and geometrical figures of the twenties and thirties with an easily changed colour-scale revive.
Comparable works came from the Karl Schibenski, Kollmar & Jourdan in Pforzheim and A.G. Bunge in München.


Cp.: Ch. Weber, R. Möller: Mode und Modeschmuck 1920-1970 in Deutschland, Stuttgart 1999, p.154; Farneti Cera: Costume Jewellery, Mailand 1995, p.195.

Also consider:

Bracelet, Tombac, Karl Schibensky, ca. 1955, Germany

Bracelet, tombac, Perli, Germany, c. 1955

Bracelet, Email-cloisonné, 1950s